So far I, Paul and Helen have been down to Quatre Bras and Ligny and made a circuit of the centre and Western side of Waterloo battlefield as well as visiting the museum and ascending the Lion Mound. We had 3 other areas to visit and we fitted these in between the battlefield walk and Quatre Bras.
First up, the far left flank of Wellington’s line. This area, which mainly includes the farms of Papelotte and La Haye is not the best known part of the battle for the simple fact that the fighting here didn’t include any British troops, except for British Hussars that were in support some distance behind the area, but didn’t get involved with the fighting and were eventually ordered east to support the centre. The area was held by a Brigade of Nassau Troops, a small German state, under Prince Saxe-Weimar. Like other continental troops in Wellington’s army, these troops had fought for Napoleon until 1814, some in the Peninsular War and had probably been engaged with some of the troops they were now Allied with. Warfare is a strange thing.
The fighting here doesn’t fit with our conception of the classic Napoleonic battle due to the nature of the terrain and to me that what makes it really interesting.
To reach the left flank it is possible to walk along the Ohain Road but we chose to drive down as it’s quite walk with little of interest on the way, except of course for the fact that for part of the way you are passing the frontage of Picton’s division that faced D’erlons attack. The road, which was partly sunken near to the crossroads isn’t now but looking to the left you can see how the ridge line rises beyond the road so you can imagine the shock the French columns got as the British infantry and Heavy cavalry appeared over the crest. Furthermore, the hedges that lined this road no longer exist so the area has changed since 1815, though not as much as the Western battlefield. There are also a few houses on the ridge that are contemporary to 1815.
What is interesting and somewhat uncomfortable is the fact that the road is still surfaced with Belgian Pave which undulates quite a bit and makes for a bone rattling drive, even in a modern car.
The thing that is immediately apparent as you deviate from the British frontage and head South-East towards Papelotte is that you are dropping down the front of the ridge but, more importantly, you are dropping below the level of the surrounding terrain. This area of the battlefield is one of narrow sunken lanes, steep banks and hedgerows. Couple this with strong farm complexes and you have a very difficult terrain to fight over. Traditional formations are of no use here and the fighting is of a much more confused nature.
You can see from the photos how different from the rest of the battlefield the nature of the ground is in this area.
The first farm you see when reaching the lowest point at a crossroads is Papelotte up on the left. It has changed substantially since the battle but its commanding position can be swiftly ascertained. It’s strength and position enabled it to hold out against strong attacks throughout the day by Durutte’s Division of D’erlon’s Corp.

Papelotte from the lane below it. 
The modern entrance to Papelotte 
Papelotte from the French viewpoint
We walked the lane opposite Papelotte and emerged out in the fields which the French advanced through to attack the area and this showed just how the ground would break up the French formations as the R/H photo shows.
Parking up below Papelotte, Paul and I walked further on round the corner passing a few modern houses and reached La Haye, again tucked in it’s sunken lane. This farm doesn’t look to have changed much and as with La Haye Sainte it is still a working farm.

La Haye 
La Haye
Beyond La Haye the lane continues and is one of the routes by which the first Prussian troops entered the battle. Initially causing some friendly fire casualties amongst the Nassau troops, which given the restricted visibility and the smoke of battle, which will have settled in this low ground and added to the confusion, and the similarity of Nassau uniforms to those of the French is hardly surprising.
I was really happy that we had taken the time to visit this part of the battlefield because it revealed a lesser known perspective of the battle. Like I have said earlier reading accounts and viewing maps cannot give a proper idea of what the battlefield is really like.
Of course to complete the battlefield experience one has to visit Plancenoit. This village was where the bulk of the Prussian forces entered the battle against the French. It’s position on Napoleon’s Right rear constituted a grave threat and it soaked up valuable troops that Napoleon could have more usefully employed against Wellington. Some Authors say that Waterloo was really a Prussian victory and there is some doubt in my mind that Wellington may not have held his position if Napoleon had not had to allocate troops to this flank quite early on in the afternoon as the Prussians were noticed on the heights to the East. Lobau’s small VI Corps, The Young Guard and the Senior Battalions of the Old Guard, the 1st Grenadiers were sucked into combat in and around the village. The fighting within was very bitter and it changed hands a few times. The Grenadiers of the Old Guard actually swept the Prussians from the village at Bayonet point.
I don’t like What Ifs, but if these troops had been available for use against Wellington, especially if they had been included in the attack of the Guard I do wonder what the result would have been.
Plancenoit is a pretty and a tidy village, but was like a ghost town. We saw almost no body and it reminded us of one of these Mexican villages in cowboy films where people look nervously out of their doors before calling their kids in off the street and slamming their doors!! Being such a peaceful place it is hard to imagine the charging back and forth and house to house fighting that took place here.

Plancenoit Church 
Pave in Plancenoit 
Plancenoit centre 
Prussian Memorial on edge of Plancenoit
With the actual battlefield covered we also took the time to visit the rear area, specifically Mont st Jean Farm and the Wellington Museum in Waterloo itself. In 1815 the area North of the battlefield was countryside with scattered hamlets and the large Forest of Soignes. Part of the forest still stands though it doesn’t cover the approach to Brussels as it did in 1815 and he small hamlet of Waterloo is now swallowed up by the expansion of Brussels. Indeed Brussels now stretches up to Mont st Jean itself. I suspect only the presence of the battlefield has retarded its growth southwards.
Mont st Jean Farm stands at the bottom of the reverse slope of the Allied ridge and was used as a hospital during the battle. I believe it did suffer some damage from overshooting cannonballs but of course no healthy Frenchman ever reached it in anger. Today it is a Brewery and you can take a tour around. We walked down from the hotel to it following the journey many a badly wounded soldier would taken, together with a couple of his colleagues supporting him; happy to be out of the battle for how ever long they could avoid it.

Mont st Jean Farm looking south 
Mont st Jean farm looking North 
Mont St Jean courtyard from rear gate
What is readily apparent is the size of this farm, it is massive in scale. it dwarfs anything else in the surrounding area, La Haye Sainte is tiny in comparison. From the rear of the farm it is interesting to look back to the ridge and imagine the formations of Heavy Cavalry and Picton’s infantry lined up awaiting the order to move forward to sweep the French back across the valley. It is now that you can really appreciate the genius of Wellington and his reverse slope tactics.

Wellington’s left flank behind the ridge 
Wellington’s left flank from behind the ridge.
It would of course have been remiss of us not to visit the house Wellington spent the night before and after the battle; it helps complete the picture. Now the Wellington Museum and situated 2 miles North of the battlefield in the now very busy suburb of Waterloo, it is well worth the visit once you’ve found somewhere to park. I like driving in Europe on the big roads, it gets a bit more confusing once you are in a busy town and not sure of your way. We did have a funny incident on the way back out; somewhere between Ligny and our hotel I lost my rear number plate. Instead of being drilled and screwed it was held on by 2 sticky pads. Possibly it became loosened by the Pave down to Papelotte! It then became rather a standing joke among us about the propensity of Fiat Cars to fall apart in the past. Anyway, whilst sat at traffic lights, a French lady driver pulled up at the side of the car and got my attention. ‘why are you black at the back?’ she asked. Well, how do you explain that in a few seconds? so I just said ‘it’s a Fiat!’ Nuff said!
So, the museum. Like I said well worth a visit. A nice French cannon out the back which also has a small outhouse where Lord Uxbridge’s leg is interred. He was struck by a cannonball, possibly one of the last fired, at the end of the battle and had his right leg amputated. Uxbridge survived his wound, unlike another officer intimately connected with the museum. Alexander Gordon, one of Wellington’s Staff Officers and whose memorial is located up the ridge from La Haye Sainte, was wounded whilst rallying a Brunswick battalion. He also needed his leg amputating. to recover he was taken here and placed in Wellingtons own camp bed. During the night, while wellington was writing his dispatch of the battle in an adjoining room, he died of his injuries. When told of Gordon’s death Wellington uttered possibly one of the most moving sentiments in history. ‘Well, thank god, I don’t know what it is to lose a battle; but certainly nothing can be more painful than to gain one with the loss of so many of one’s friends.

Wellington Museum, Waterloo 
French 12pdr, Wellington Museum 
Site of Uxbridge’s interred Leg
Across the road is the church of Saint Joseph of Waterloo whose walls are adorned with memorials to units and individuals that took part in the battle.
We had certainly packed in a huge amount in the few days we spent at Hotel 1815 and I would go back in a heartbeat. There is still so much more I would want to spent further time researching, visiting and experiencing: More of the Ligny battlefield, Wavre and the Prussian route to the battle, a closer inspection of La Haye Sainte, following specific incidents within the battle and discovering them on the field, as well as spending time just sitting and taking in the atmosphere of this famous ground.
I am forever fortunate to have picked up that first book on Waterloo at Primary School and then read Jac Weller’s ‘Wellington at Waterloo’. The photos contained within of the battlefield in the 1960s have been a real inspiration to discover those sights for myself. It may have taken 40 years to realise the dream but I am extremely happy to have finally faced my Waterloo.

































































